{"id":84998,"date":"2020-02-02T15:12:49","date_gmt":"2020-02-02T14:12:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/\/?p=84998"},"modified":"2020-02-03T13:36:11","modified_gmt":"2020-02-03T12:36:11","slug":"tydenni-vandr-po-polsku-na-mazury-a-zpet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/cs\/tydenni-vandr-po-polsku-na-mazury-a-zpet\/","title":{"rendered":"T\u00fddenn\u00ed vandr po Polsku na Mazury a zp\u011bt"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Tak mi zase v m\u00e9 mailov\u00e9 schr\u00e1nce p\u0159ist\u00e1l nejen\u017ee moc hezk\u00fd email od jednoho z v\u00e1s, ale tak\u00e9 cestopis. No, a proto\u017ee mi Zden\u011bk napsal „D\u011bkujeme za kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 str\u00e1nky o kempov\u00e1n\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jste vymyslela a kter\u00e9 sledujeme. Jsme sice u\u017e \u00fapln\u00ed senio\u0159i, ale jezd\u00edme r\u00e1di a snad n\u00e1m to je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bjak\u00fd \u010das zdrav\u00ed dovol\u00ed. Na\u0161e VW T5 m\u00e1me r\u00e1di, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me mu Matylda… a proto\u017ee si mysl\u00edm, \u017ee by bylo spravedliv\u00e9 tak\u00e9 n\u011bco m\u00e1lo za n\u00e1s nab\u00eddnout, tak jsem napsal p\u00e1r post\u0159eh\u016f z na\u0161eho putov\u00e1n\u00ed po polsk\u00fdch Mazurech“. <\/em>J\u00e1 na to \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m – Zdendo a Helenko, moc d\u011bkuji a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b s radost\u00ed tento cestopis uve\u0159ej\u0148uji! Tak kdo z v\u00e1s pojede stejnou cestu?<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Vloni, za\u010d\u00e1tkem z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 2019, jsme s moj\u00ed \u017eenou a s na\u0161\u00edm mal\u00fdm VW T5 vyjeli kempovat do Polska. Na\u0161\u00edm c\u00edlem bylo poznat kraj Mazursk\u00fdch jezer. Nebudu se proto zdr\u017eovat popisem cesty p\u0159es Polsko do Mikolajek, kde jsme poprv\u00e9 zakempovali. Po p\u0159ejet\u00ed pohrani\u010dn\u00edch hor nen\u00ed, pokud vynech\u00e1me m\u011bsta, p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho k vid\u011bn\u00ed. Silnice jsou z velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti opraven\u00e9 nebo nov\u00e9, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm pokud jde o zat\u00ed\u017een\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed komunikace, d\u00e1lnice a okol\u00ed m\u011bst. V pohod\u011b jsme t\u011bch 800 km p\u0159ejeli za den. To v\u0161ak platilo a\u017e od okam\u017eiku, kdy jsme dojeli k Ol\u0161t\u00fdnu. Tam se krajina se stala divokou, zelenou a kr\u00e1snou. Mus\u00edm napsat, \u017ee Mikolajky se n\u00e1m osv\u011bd\u010dily jako v\u00fdborn\u00e9 m\u00edsto pro prvn\u00ed p\u0159enocov\u00e1n\u00ed a prvn\u00ed sezn\u00e1men\u00ed se s zdej\u0161\u00edm krajem. Kemp Wagabunda<\/a> je nevelk\u00fd a navzdory sv\u00e9mu jm\u00e9nu \u010dist\u00fd s funk\u010dn\u00edm a \u010dist\u00fdm z\u00e1zem\u00edm za rozumnou cenu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mikolajky (mapa<\/a>) jsou kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 a mal\u00e9 historick\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed na b\u0159ehu obrovsk\u00e9ho Sniardwick\u00e9ho jezera s p\u0159\u00edjemnou atmosf\u00e9rou, velk\u00fdm mno\u017estv\u00edm hosp\u016fdek s v\u00fdborn\u00fdm j\u00eddlem za ceny srovnateln\u00e9 s na\u0161imi. No a hlavn\u011b s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdm okol\u00edm. Nakonec jsme tu z\u016fstali d\u00e9le a podnikli dva v\u00fdlety po okol\u00ed na elektro kolech<\/a>. Tato str\u00e1nka na\u0161\u00ed dovolen\u00e9 ov\u0161em nakonec t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 vzala za sv\u00e9. Cyklostezkou se v tomto kraji rozum\u00ed cokoli. Jen\u017ee j\u00edzda v hlubok\u00e9m p\u00edsku lesn\u00edch cest, nebo po cest\u00e1ch s vyje\u017ed\u011bn\u00fdmi kolejemi od traktor\u016f a nekon\u010d\u00edc\u00edmi \u00faseky s p\u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00fdmi drn\u010d\u00edc\u00edmi r\u00fdhami \u2013 roletami, to v\u016fbec nen\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek (v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b nutnosti doporu\u010duji upustit pneumatiky)… A kdy\u017e se dostanete na \u201eokresku\u201c, m\u00edj\u00ed v\u00e1s auta tak nebezpe\u010dn\u011b, \u017ee si j\u00edzdu rychle rozmysl\u00edte. Skute\u010dn\u00fdch cyklostezek jsme v t\u00e9to oblasti odhalili tak 5 %, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v opraven\u00fdch centrech m\u011bst. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na druhou stranu, i na za\u010d\u00e1tku z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed se zde dalo koupat na upraven\u00fdch plov\u00e1rn\u00e1ch a ob\u010das i v mal\u00fdch ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edstavech na divok\u00fdch b\u0159ez\u00edch jezer, nekone\u010dn\u011b dlouh\u00fdch, porostl\u00fdch r\u00e1kos\u00edm ale s \u010distou vodou. Os\u00eddlen\u00ed je zde velmi \u0159\u00eddk\u00e9, pokryt\u00ed infrastrukturou tedy tak\u00e9, ale p\u0159\u00edroda n\u00e1dhern\u00e1. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V\u00fdlet na kole na m\u00edsto \u0161\u00edje mezi dv\u011bma jezery (Sniardwick\u00e9ho a Luknajno), kde jsou na obou b\u0159ez\u00edch rozhledny, tak\u017ee m\u016f\u017eete obdivovat floru i vodn\u00ed ptactvo, jsme nakonec zvl\u00e1dli. Je tam i hosp\u016fdka a parkovi\u0161\u0165\u00e1tko. Le\u010d, po n\u00e1vratu jsme si p\u0159ipadali, jako bychom ujeli 100 km. Odpoledn\u00ed koupel v jeze\u0159e a v\u00fdborn\u00e1 ve\u010de\u0159e v p\u0159\u00edstavu n\u00e1s pak postavila op\u011bt \u201ena nohy\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed den jsme pokra\u010dovali krajinou jezer, les\u016f, luk a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch chaloupek do Gyzicka (mapa<\/a>). Proto\u017ee pr\u0161elo, nav\u0161t\u00edvili jsme toto m\u011bste\u010dko, prohl\u00e9dli si m\u00edstn\u00ed pevnost a taky jsme vid\u011bli, jak zde, v t\u00e9to jezernat\u00e9 krajin\u011b, funguj\u00ed oto\u010dn\u00e9 mosty. Jezera spojuje mnoho kan\u00e1l\u016f a ty jsou ur\u010deny k tomu, aby po nich mohly proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt lod\u011b, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm pak rekrea\u010dn\u00ed plachetnice. N\u011bkde jsou n\u00edzk\u00e9, jinde otev\u00edrac\u00ed nebo oto\u010dn\u00e9 mosty. V\u0161echny lod\u011b maj\u00ed proto snadno sklopn\u00e9 st\u011b\u017en\u011b, co\u017e je pro pohyb mezi jezery podm\u00ednka. Oto\u010dn\u00fd most v Gizycku je pam\u00e1tka a je zaj\u00edmav\u00fd t\u00edm, \u017ee oto\u010dit jej je mo\u017en\u00e9 pouze ru\u010dn\u011b. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na\u0161\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vkou byl are\u00e1l \u201eVl\u010d\u00ed doup\u011b\u201c, kter\u00fd nechal vystav\u011bt Hitler na po\u010d\u00e1tku II. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. Bylo to my\u0161leno jako pevnost, kter\u00e1 m\u011bla slou\u017eit k velen\u00ed operaci Barbarossa, tedy velen\u00ed v\u00fdchodn\u00ed front\u011b. Torza bunkr\u016f s popisem, rozvaliny betonov\u00fdch blok\u016f (siln\u00fdch tipl bych si 4 \u2013 5 metr\u016f) ukazuj\u00ed, jak sm\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 a hloup\u00e9 b\u00fdvaj\u00ed pl\u00e1ny dikt\u00e1tor\u016f v\u0161eho druhu. (Kl\u00e1ra se o n\u011bm zmi\u0148ovala tady<\/a>)<\/em>. Obrovsk\u00e1 investice nakonec slou\u017eila Hitlerovi jen p\u00e1r t\u00fddn\u016f. V okam\u017eiku, kdy do n\u00ed vtrhala Rud\u00e1 arm\u00e1da, byly v\u0161echny betonov\u00e9 zdi k ni\u010demu. Je\u0161t\u011b jedna zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 historick\u00e1 ud\u00e1lost je s t\u00edmto m\u00edstem spojena. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ve zdej\u0161\u00edch m\u00edstnostech se plukovn\u00edk G\u0160 Claus Schenk von Stauffenberg pokusil o atent\u00e1t na Hitlera. I tyto okam\u017eiky jsou zde pe\u010dliv\u011b pops\u00e1ny a vysv\u011btleny, co\u017e m\u011b velmi zaj\u00edmalo. V are\u00e1lu je tak\u00e9 restaurace a dal\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1zem\u00ed. Za parkovi\u0161t\u011b se plat\u00ed. I tak doporu\u010duji v\u0161em, kte\u0159\u00ed se o d\u011bjiny druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky zaj\u00edmaj\u00ed, aby se tu na p\u016fl dne zastavili.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Foto: Kempujeme s Kl\u00e1rou<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kr\u00e1sn\u00fd nocleh jsme pak nalezli v\u00a0kempu Tumiany (mapa<\/a>), docela bl\u00edzko Ol\u0161t\u00fdna, kam jsme se cht\u011bli tak\u00e9 pod\u00edvat. Pokud bych to m\u011bl napsat jednodu\u0161e, tak tento kemp na b\u0159ehu jezera Tumianskego byl n\u00e1dhern\u00fd. V\u00a0z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed tu bylo jen m\u00e1lo host\u016f, sp\u00ed\u0161 n\u011bjac\u00ed ryb\u00e1\u0159i, tak\u017ee jsme si p\u0159\u00edrodu a klid velmi u\u017eili. Restaurace je\u0161t\u011b fungovala, ale tu jsme nevyu\u017eili. Z\u00e1zem\u00ed bylo skv\u011bl\u00e9. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b, kryt\u00e9 ohni\u0161t\u011b a bar ji\u017e byly zav\u0159en\u00e9. O to kr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed byly p\u00eds\u010dit\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ei\u010dky, pust\u00e9 malebn\u00e9 b\u0159ehy a vodn\u00ed ptactvo. Na kolo to sice \u00fapln\u011b nebylo, ale na chv\u00edle zde str\u00e1ven\u00e9 nelze zapomenout. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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P\u0159i na\u0161\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed cest\u011b jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 historick\u00e9 a opraven\u00e9 m\u011bsto Ol\u0161t\u00fdn. Ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za shl\u00e9dnut\u00ed, jakkoli mysl\u00edm, \u017ee je zbyte\u010dn\u00e9 abych je popisoval, na to je k dispozici dost kvalitn\u00edch pr\u016fvodc\u016f. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po z\u00e1\u017eitc\u00edch z prohl\u00eddky Ol\u0161t\u00fdna jsme pokra\u010dovali kr\u00e1snou p\u0159\u00edrodou na JZ do kempu EkoMarina (mapa<\/a>) v obci Siemiany, na b\u0159ehu dlouh\u00e9ho jezera Jeziorak, na jeho\u017e ji\u017en\u00edm konci je m\u011bste\u010dko Ilawa. Kemp v p\u011bkn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b, patrn\u011b nov\u00fd, je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jachta\u0159sk\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstavu. Jenom je t\u0159eba d\u00e1vat pozor. Cesty v kempu jsou p\u00edskov\u00e9 a kemp se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v prudk\u00e9m svahu. Kola auta se opravdu hodn\u011b bo\u0159\u00ed. Jednotliv\u00e1 st\u00e1n\u00ed jsou pak na teras\u00e1ch s v\u00fdhledem na jezero. Ve m\u011bste\u010dku je v\u00fdborn\u00e1 mal\u00e1 letn\u00ed restaurace s gruz\u00ednsk\u00fdmi i polsk\u00fdmi specialitami a v\u00fdhledem na jezero. V kempu pak n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 koup\u00e1n\u00ed. Je zde i mo\u017enost zap\u016fj\u010den\u00ed plachetnice, nebo proj\u00ed\u017e\u010fky s m\u00edstn\u00edm skipperem. I na kolech jsme se zde projeli, by\u0165 to \u00fapln\u011b snadn\u00e9 nebylo, pr\u00e1v\u011b kv\u016fli p\u00edskov\u00fdm lesn\u00edm cest\u00e1m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Rozjeli jsme se k domovu. Krajina u\u017e za\u010d\u00ednala trochu pustnout, nicm\u00e9n\u011b je\u0161t\u011b se n\u00e1m poda\u0159ilo zakempovat \u201ena divoko\u201c u vesni\u010dky Kolatek. Tedy, ne \u00fapln\u011b na divoko, ale se souhlasem spr\u00e1vce mal\u00e9ho, ale kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho rekrea\u010dn\u00edho are\u00e1lu na jeho parkovi\u0161ti. Tato za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed se zde naz\u00fdvaj\u00ed \u201eOsrodky\u201c a typovali jsme, \u017ee jsou to poz\u016fstatky po n\u011bjak\u00fdch stranick\u00fdch nebo odbor\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd rekrea\u010dn\u00edch za\u0159\u00edzen\u00edch. N\u011bkter\u00e1 jsou dnes kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 a p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u00e1, jako bylo to na\u0161e, ale setkali jsme se i s t\u00edm, \u017ee jsme byli nemilosrdn\u011b vyhn\u00e1ni, a\u010dkoli tam bylo zcela pr\u00e1zdno. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed den jsme si prohl\u00e9dli kr\u00e1sn\u011b opraven\u00fd skanzen lidov\u00fdch staveb v bl\u00edzk\u00e9m Olsztynku. Ony jsou ty skanzeny podobn\u00e9, ale tento se n\u00e1m moc l\u00edbil. Nav\u00edc jsme si p\u0159ipomn\u011bli, \u017ee cel\u00e9 severn\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed p\u00e1smo Polska pat\u0159ilo dlouho pod N\u011bmecko (Prusko) a to po sob\u011b zanechalo mnoho staveb a taky smysl pro po\u0159\u00e1dek a \u010distotu. Ur\u010dit\u011b tento skanzen za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu stoj\u00ed. Zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b tak\u00e9 proto, \u017ee jeho sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed je i hezk\u00e1 stylov\u00e1 restaurace s typick\u00fdmi dom\u00e1c\u00edmi j\u00eddly. Mimochodem, velmi jsme si obl\u00edbili to, \u010demu se v Polsku \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 surowky, co\u017e je rozmanit\u00e1, kysan\u00e1 a na kyselo nakl\u00e1dan\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed zelenina. N\u011bco jako pickles po anglicku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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To, co jsem psal o Ol\u0161t\u00fdnu plat\u00ed i o dal\u0161\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b na cest\u011b, o Toruni. Ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za vid\u011bn\u00ed i za nastudov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edch zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed. Toto v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 star\u00e9 univerzitn\u00ed m\u011bsto, kter\u00fdm prot\u00e9k\u00e1 \u0159eka Wisla, m\u00e1 milou atmosf\u00e9ru a bohatou historii. Jinak ov\u0161em, pr\u016fjezd rovinatou a pustou nebo pr\u016fmyslovou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Polska zaj\u00edmav\u00fd nen\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Foto: Kempujeme s Kl\u00e1rou <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

T\u00fdden se ch\u00fdlil ke konci a my jsme se pomalu vraceli dom\u016f. Vybrali jsme pro zm\u011bnu cestu p\u0159i hranici s N\u011bmeckem, kolem Nisy, kde jsme je\u0161t\u011b nebyli a zaj\u00edmalo n\u00e1s, jak to tam vypad\u00e1. Pro posledn\u00ed dv\u011b noci jsme dostali kr\u00e1sn\u00fd dar v podob\u011b kempu u m\u011bste\u010dka Wolstyn. N\u00e1dhern\u00fd lesn\u00ed kemp Ustronie, 3 km od p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho mal\u00e9ho m\u011bste\u010dka. Oboj\u00ed na b\u0159ehu jezera, oboj\u00ed \u010dist\u00e9 s n\u00e1dhernou atmosf\u00e9rou i p\u0159\u00edrodou. Mnoho funk\u010dn\u00edch cyklostezek, \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed muzeum, pln\u00e9 parn\u00edch lokomotiv i s parn\u00ed to\u010dnou a hosp\u016fdky a vin\u00e1rni\u010dky na b\u0159ehu jezera k pomazlen\u00ed. Tak tady jsme si to u\u017eili a v\u0161em doporu\u010dujeme, pokud pojedete kolem, nebojte se stavit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po cest\u011b dom\u016f jsme se je\u0161t\u011b zastavili ve vojensk\u00e9m muzeu v Rothenburgu, kde maj\u00ed, krom\u011b jin\u00e9ho, zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 vzorky sov\u011btsk\u00fdch i \u010deskoslovensk\u00fdch letadel. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 zast\u00e1vce na nov\u011b opraven\u00e9m Trojmez\u00ed jsme pak u\u017e dojeli zp\u011bt do Prahy. Ujeli jsme n\u011bjak\u00fdch 2500 km a bylo to moc p\u011bkn\u00e9 pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kl\u00e1ra: Za sebe doporu\u010duji si p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst m\u00e9 doposud publikovan\u00e9 \u010dl\u00e1nky o Polsku, nebo\u0165 jsem p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dena, \u017ee v nich najdete, stejn\u011b jako v cestopisu Zdenka a Helenky, plno super tip\u016f. – v\u0161echny si je zobraz\u00edte TADY<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zdenek a Helena Mr\u00e1zkovi<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tak mi zase v m\u00e9 mailov\u00e9 schr\u00e1nce p\u0159ist\u00e1l nejen\u017ee moc hezk\u00fd email od jednoho z v\u00e1s, ale tak\u00e9 cestopis. No, a proto\u017ee mi Zden\u011bk napsal „D\u011bkujeme za kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 str\u00e1nky o kempov\u00e1n\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jste vymyslela a kter\u00e9 sledujeme. Jsme sice u\u017e \u00fapln\u00ed senio\u0159i, ale jezd\u00edme r\u00e1di a snad n\u00e1m to je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bjak\u00fd \u010das zdrav\u00ed dovol\u00ed. Na\u0161e […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":85029,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2375,422],"tags":[110,94],"class_list":{"0":"post-84998","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-kempovani-a-cestovani-v-polsku","8":"category-novinky-kempovani-a-karavaning","9":"tag-cestopis","10":"tag-polsko"},"yoast_head":"\nT\u00fddenn\u00ed vandr po Polsku na Mazury a zp\u011bt - All4Camper<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"All4Camper - T\u00fddenn\u00ed vandr po Polsku na Mazury a zp\u011bt\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/cs\/tydenni-vandr-po-polsku-na-mazury-a-zpet\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"T\u00fddenn\u00ed vandr po Polsku na Mazury a zp\u011bt - 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