{"id":79085,"date":"2019-06-24T17:47:13","date_gmt":"2019-06-24T15:47:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/\/?p=79085"},"modified":"2019-12-02T14:36:30","modified_gmt":"2019-12-02T13:36:30","slug":"bosna-a-hercegovina-jeepem-i-cast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/cs\/bosna-a-hercegovina-jeepem-i-cast\/","title":{"rendered":"Bosna a Hercegovina Jeepem I. \u010d\u00e1st"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Turisty opom\u00edjen\u00e1 a p\u0159itom tak kr\u00e1sn\u00e1! Zem\u011b me\u0161it, minaret\u016f, rozbo\u0159en\u00fdch dom\u016f z v\u00e1lky a min. … Ale tak\u00e9 n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch hor, jezer a vodop\u00e1d\u016f. To v\u0161echno je Bosna a Hercegovina.<\/strong> A je\u0161t\u011b mnohem v\u00edc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My jsme m\u011bli tu mo\u017enost ji poznat v l\u00e9t\u011b 2018 na na\u0161\u00ed letn\u00ed Jeep expedici. Cestovalo n\u00e1s sedm osob (Honza, T\u00fdnka, Jarda, Dan\u010da, Tom\u00e1\u0161, Zden\u011bk a moje mali\u010dkost) a \u010dty\u0159i auta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prvn\u00ed, co v\u00e1s v t\u00e9to zemi udiv\u00ed, je d\u016fkladn\u00e1 kontrola na hranic\u00edch a n\u00e1sledn\u011b velmi z\u0159eteln\u00e9 poz\u016fstatky ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 v\u00e1lky (b\u0159ezen1992 \u2013 listopad 1995). Post\u0159\u00edlen\u00e9, rozt\u0159\u00edlen\u00e9 a zarostl\u00e9 rozbo\u0159en\u00e9 domy v\u00e1s budou prov\u00e1zet v\u0161ude. Dokonce i ve velk\u00fdch m\u011bstech jako je Sarajevo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tnost\u00ed, kterou budete potk\u00e1vat, dokonce i v t\u011bch nejzapadlej\u0161\u00edch vesni\u010dk\u00e1ch jsou me\u0161ity s minarety. Svol\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed k motlitb\u011b prob\u00edh\u00e1 5x za den a ur\u010dit\u011b to nep\u0159eslechnete!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Posledn\u00ed v\u011bc\u00ed, kter\u00e1 asi turist\u016fm nejv\u00edce nah\u00e1n\u00ed hr\u016fzu jsou miny. Nediv\u00edm se, sama jsem se b\u00e1la a p\u0159i hled\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edsta k p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed na ,,divoko\u201c, jsem terorizovala v\u0161echny p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9, v\u011btou: ,, Tady se mi to nel\u00edb\u00ed, tady jsou ur\u010dit\u011b miny, tady sp\u00e1t nebudu!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Obez\u0159etnost a zdrav\u00fd selsk\u00fd rozum jsou v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b opravdu na m\u00edst\u011b! Pou\u010dka tedy zn\u00ed: nesch\u00e1zet nikde z cest, vyh\u00fdbat se les\u016fm a m\u00edsta na p\u0159esp\u00e1n\u00ed hledat takov\u00e1, kde je evidentn\u011b vid\u011bt, \u017ee u\u017e tu p\u0159ed v\u00e1mi n\u011bkdo byl.(pastviny, pokosen\u00e9 louky, pole).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1\u0161 ,,velitel expedice“ Honza sestavoval pl\u00e1n cesty tak, abychom si u\u017eili n\u011bjak\u00fd ten offroad (kdy\u017e u\u017e jedeme t\u011bmi Jeepy), a z\u00e1rove\u0148 abychom toho vid\u011bli co nejv\u00edce. Velk\u00fdm pomocn\u00edkem mu byla kniha Bosensk\u00e9 \u0161otoliny <\/strong>od Offroad guide<\/a>, <\/strong>kter\u00e1 je bohu\u017eel v sou\u010dasn\u00e9 dob\u011b beznad\u011bjn\u011b vyprod\u00e1na.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autor v\u0161ak na sv\u00e9 FB str\u00e1nce slibuje dotisk s aktualizacemi. M\u00edsto knihy mohu je\u0161t\u011b doporu\u010dit apku s online navigac\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co n\u00e1s v Bosn\u011b uchv\u00e1tilo (ono pak t\u011bch m\u00edst bylo v\u00edc) bylo \u00fadol\u00ed s \u0159ekou Krivaja.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tohle m\u00edsto je snem ka\u017ed\u00e9ho kempa\u0159e. N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 divok\u00e1 \u0159eka ( do\u010detla jsem se, \u017ee se na n\u00ed v letn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch provozuje rafting) obklopen\u00e1 zalesn\u011bn\u00fdmi kopci. Kdy\u017e jsme proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli \u00fadol\u00edm, ne\u017e jsme se vydali do kopc\u016f k m\u011bste\u010dku Vare\u0161, jen jsme v n\u011bm\u00e9m \u00fa\u017easu pozorovali tu kr\u00e1su. Zobrazit lokalitu na map\u011b<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ve Vare\u0161i jsme se cht\u011bli pod\u00edvat na opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a doly. Ale vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee jsme sem dorazili za tmy, zklaman\u011b jsme museli uznat, \u017ee prohl\u00eddka nep\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed v \u00favahu. N\u00e1plast\u00ed n\u00e1m v\u0161ak byla jin\u00e1 pod\u00edvan\u00e1. Na silnici R444, kousek p\u0159ed Vare\u0161\u00ed, je jeskyn\u011b, <\/strong>kterou proch\u00e1zela silnice – Tunel Ponikve.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jeskynn\u00ed tunel Ponikva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sotva jsme do n\u011bj vjeli, u\u017e se ve vys\u00edla\u010dk\u00e1ch oz\u00fdvalo:,,vid\u00edte tu kr\u00e1su? Ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme!\u201c Tak\u017ee jsme dojeli na konec tunelu, tam se oto\u010dili a dali si to je\u0161t\u011b jednou.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A i kdy\u017e v tunelu nebylo moc m\u00edsta k zastaven\u00ed, zastavit jsme prost\u011b museli! Fo\u0165\u00e1ky v mobilu sice necht\u011bly moc pobrat osv\u011btlen\u00ed, ale p\u0159esto v\u0161ichni fotili jak vztekl\u00fd! :-)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u00edce o tomto jeskyn\u00edm tunelu se dozv\u00edte na m\u00e9 FB str\u00e1nce Babi\u010dka na cest\u00e1ch. Je tam v\u00edc fotek a tak\u00e9 n\u011bjak\u00e9 video.Ur\u010dit\u011b se pod\u00edvejte! <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Noc jsme str\u00e1vili v Sarajevu, ve velvyslaneck\u00e9 \u010dtvrti, v pronajat\u00e9m byt\u011b p\u0159es Airbnb. Honza se do\u010detl, \u017ee se v Sarajevu hodn\u011b krade, a tak hledal m\u00edsto, kde by i na\u0161e auta byla relativn\u011b v bezpe\u010d\u00ed. Velvyslaneck\u00e1 \u010dtv\u0165 s des\u00edtkami kamer se jevila jako dobr\u00e1 volba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Prohl\u00eddka Sarajeva byla samoz\u0159ejmost\u00ed! Do centra jsme se svezli tramvaj\u00ed, kde n\u00e1s p\u0159ekvapil velk\u00fd po\u010det zahalen\u00fdch \u017een. A\u017e pozd\u011bji jsme se dozv\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee Sarajevo je z 80% muslimsk\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve m\u011bst\u011b jsme si prohl\u00e9dli:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ijsk\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ija)<\/strong> – je to centr\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed s Sebiljem, co\u017e je d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 ka\u0161na od \u010desk\u00e9ho architekta Alexandra V\u00edtka<\/strong> a te\u010de v n\u00ed pitn\u00e1 voda. Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed je star\u00fd bazar z osmansk\u00fdch dob, kter\u00fd je hlavn\u00edm turistick\u00fdm l\u00e1kadlem m\u011bsta, kde se nach\u00e1z\u00ed cel\u00e1 \u0159ada obchod\u016f, \u0159emesln\u00fdch d\u00edlen, restaurac\u00ed a kav\u00e1ren.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Katedr\u00e1lu srdce Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161ova \u2013<\/strong> zn\u00e1m\u00e1 tak\u00e9 pod n\u00e1zvem Sarajevsk\u00e1 katedr\u00e1la. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Latinsk\u00fd most – <\/strong>nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tka m\u011bsta. Je zobrazen na znaku a vlajce m\u011bsta. V roce 1914 byl na konci tohoto mostu sp\u00e1ch\u00e1m atent\u00e1t na Franti\u0161ka Ferdinanda d\u00b4Este. V\u0161ichni ur\u010dit\u011b zn\u00e1te:,, sedm kul\u00ed jako v Sarajevu\u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Galerii – <\/strong>kde pr\u00e1v\u011b prob\u00edhala v\u00fdstava ,, The siege of Sarajevo\u201c (Obl\u00e9h\u00e1n\u00ed Sarajeva), co\u017e byl opravdu z\u00e1\u017eitek! Tolik bolesti a beznad\u011bje! Vzpamatov\u00e1vali jsme se z toho cel\u00fd zbytek dne! V\u00e1lky by prost\u011b nem\u011bli b\u00fdt!!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sarajevo Star\u00fd bazar <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kam jsme pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1l<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ze Sarajeva jsme se vydali do nedalek\u00e9ho poho\u0159\u00ed Igman, kde se v roce 1984 konali 14.zimn\u00ed Olympijsk\u00e9 hry. Je to cca 30 minut j\u00edzdy autem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Co jsme na\u0161li, n\u00e1m ale vyrazilo dech!<\/strong> Hotel Igman, ve kter\u00e9m kdysi bydlely sportovci, nejd\u0159\u00edve nahlodal zub \u010dasu a zbytek dokonala v\u00e1lka. V dob\u011b sv\u00e9 nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy v n\u011bm bylo ubytov\u00e1no p\u0159es 500 sportovc\u016f. Dnes je z n\u011bj ruina, ve kter\u00e9 si m\u00edstn\u00ed omladina hraje na voj\u00e1ky a st\u0159\u00edl\u00ed po sob\u011b kuli\u010dkami. (airsoft). V podobn\u00e9m stavu jsou i skokansk\u00e9 m\u016fstky (kter\u00e9 jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili) a bobov\u00e1 dr\u00e1ha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pokud tato m\u00edsta budete cht\u00edt nav\u0161t\u00edvit, tak by to m\u011blo b\u00fdt s nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed opatrnost\u00ed, proto\u017ee bosen\u0161t\u00ed Srbov\u00e9 rozm\u00edstnili v kopc\u00edch kolem olympijsk\u00fdch sportovi\u0161t tis\u00edce min a dodnes se na n\u011bkter\u00e1 m\u00edsta nesm\u00ed v\u016fbec vstoupit. Oblasti, kde by se miny mohly vyskytovat jsou z\u0159eteln\u011b ozna\u010den\u00e9 \u010derven\u00fdmi cedulemi s n\u00e1pisem PAZI MINE (pozor miny, )a t\u00fdmy pyrotechnik\u016f se speci\u00e1ln\u011b vycvi\u010den\u00fdmi psy tyto oblasti postupn\u011b odminov\u00e1vaj\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na konec dne n\u00e1s \u010dekalo poho\u0159\u00ed Bjela\u0161nica<\/strong> se stejnojmen\u00fdm nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholem (2067m.n.m) a na ten jsme se vydali. Poho\u0159\u00edm k vrcholu vede silnice, kter\u00e1 je \u00fa\u0159ady schv\u00e1len\u00e1 jako ,,ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed\u201c, ale jet po n\u00ed osobn\u00edm autem je hol\u00fd nesmysl. Je sam\u00e9 kamen\u00ed! Pokud tedy nem\u00e1te n\u011bjak\u00e9 offroad auto, tak v\u00fdjezd na vrchol nedoporu\u010duji. … I kdy\u017e m\u00edstn\u00ed se toho tady neboj\u00ed a sv\u00fdmi star\u00fdmi Golfy a Audinami tyto ,,ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed silnice\u201c pln\u00e9 kamen\u00ed a \u0161t\u011brku norm\u00e1ln\u011b proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Z vrcholu Bjela\u0161nice jsou \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy, kter\u00e9 se v\u00e1m nesmazateln\u011b vryjou do pam\u011bti! Nocovali jsme ,,na divoko\u201c asi 5 km pod vrcholem v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 1588m. … A no\u010dn\u00ed obloha … to m\u00e1te pocit, \u017ee u\u017e jste ve vesm\u00edru!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no, jsme nenastartovali auto. <\/strong>U\u017e ve\u010der, po dojet\u00ed na m\u00edsto nocov\u00e1n\u00ed, se mu necht\u011blo, ale \u0159\u00edkali jsme si, \u017ee to bude n\u011bjak\u00e1 prkotika. No nebyla! Je\u0161t\u011b, \u017ee m\u011bl Honza ten dobr\u00fd n\u00e1pad, a to pojistit odtah auta. V Kooperativ\u011b, kde jsme m\u011bli pojistku sjednanou, byli mil\u00ed a vst\u0159\u00edcn\u00ed a hned za\u010dali sh\u00e1n\u011bt n\u011bkoho, kdo n\u00e1s na odtahovce sveze z hor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Trvalo to sice dlouho (a\u017e do odpoledne), ale nakonec po „x“ telefon\u00e1tech dorazila ze Sarajeva odtahovka. A\u010dkoliv jsme n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t hl\u00e1sili jakou hmotnost m\u00e1 na\u0161e auto, p\u0159ijel mal\u00fd Renault Master. Z\u0159ejm\u011b \u017e\u00e1dnou v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed odtahovku, kter\u00e1 by byla ochotn\u00e1 dojet pro n\u00e1s do hor ( i kdy\u017e po ,,of\u00edci\u00e1ln\u00ed cest\u011b\u201c), nena\u0161li. P\u00e1n lamentoval a rozhazoval rukama hned jak dojel, a to se pak je\u0161t\u011b zhor\u0161ilo, kdy\u017e mu na\u0161e t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 auto p\u0159i natahov\u00e1n\u00ed na odtahovku zlomilo n\u00e1jezdy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cesta z hor zp\u011bt do Sarajeva do autorizovan\u00e9ho servisu Jeep byla pro odtahov\u00e9 auto na hranici \u00fanosnosti. Vypadalo to, \u017ee se pod t\u00edhou na\u0161eho auta ka\u017edou chv\u00edli rozpadne. Ale n\u011bjak\u00fdm z\u00e1zrakem jsme dojeli!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cestou jsme se je\u0161t\u011b zastavovali nechat sva\u0159it zlomen\u00e9 n\u00e1jezdy, kter\u00e9 se ale stejn\u011b zase p\u0159i skl\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed auta v servisu zlomily! P\u00e1n u\u017e p\u0159estal lamentovat a jen odevzdan\u011b koukal! Tak jsme trochu zariskovali a za ochotu nab\u00eddli \u0159idi\u010di l\u00e1hev Becherovky! V muslimsk\u00e9 zemi je alkohol velk\u00fd proh\u0159e\u0161ek, ale p\u00e1n bu\u010f nebyl muslim a nebo to n\u011bjak nehrotil, proto\u017ee nab\u00edzenou l\u00e1hev p\u0159ijal.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O autorizovan\u00e9m servisu Jeep v Sarajevu snad ani ps\u00e1t nebudu. Je to stejn\u00e9 jako u n\u00e1s v \u010cech\u00e1ch! Mus\u00edte m\u00edt prost\u011b \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed a natrefit na \u010dlov\u011bka, kter\u00fd tomu rozum\u00ed! Co\u017e se tady nestalo!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Narychlo jsme se ubytovali zase v Sarajevu v n\u00e1dhern\u00e9m byt\u011b p\u0159es Airbnb (u\u017e jsem o n\u011bm psala v souvislosti s minaretem, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s r\u00e1no v 5 hodin probudil sv\u00fdm svol\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm k modlitb\u011b ZDE<\/a>). Ve\u010der jsme str\u00e1vili vym\u00fd\u0161len\u00edm jak pokra\u010dovat d\u00e1l. Moc jsme se u toho nasm\u00e1li, proto\u017ee jeden absurdn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1vrh st\u0159\u00eddal druh\u00fd, a n\u011bkter\u00e9 u\u017e byli i ve f\u00e1zi uskute\u010dn\u011bn\u00ed!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

,,R\u00e1no je moud\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed ve\u010dera\u201c, a tak i my jsme dosp\u011bli k rozhodnut\u00ed.<\/strong> Z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1me v hotelu pobl\u00ed\u017e auta a \u010dek\u00e1me na odtahovku, kter\u00e1 pro n\u00e1s jede z \u010cech. Ostatn\u00ed budou pokra\u010dovat v zapo\u010dat\u00e9 expedici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No a zat\u00edmco si Jeep banda u\u017e\u00edvala v \u010cern\u00e9 Ho\u0159e, n\u00e1m v hlav\u011b od toho ve\u010dera hlodal jeden z t\u011bch mnoha absurdn\u00edch n\u00e1pad\u016f, na kter\u00e9 jsme p\u0159i\u0161li, a u\u017e p\u0159i cest\u011b dom\u016f na odtahovce bylo nad m\u00edru jasn\u00e9, \u017ee se vr\u00e1t\u00edme zp\u011bt! … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Turisty opom\u00edjen\u00e1 a p\u0159itom tak kr\u00e1sn\u00e1! Zem\u011b me\u0161it, minaret\u016f, rozbo\u0159en\u00fdch dom\u016f z v\u00e1lky a min. … Ale tak\u00e9 n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch hor, jezer a vodop\u00e1d\u016f. To v\u0161echno je Bosna a Hercegovina. A je\u0161t\u011b mnohem v\u00edc. My jsme m\u011bli tu mo\u017enost ji poznat v l\u00e9t\u011b 2018 na na\u0161\u00ed letn\u00ed Jeep expedici. Cestovalo n\u00e1s sedm osob (Honza, T\u00fdnka, Jarda, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":153,"featured_media":79100,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[422,2373],"tags":[383,325],"class_list":{"0":"post-79085","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-novinky-kempovani-a-karavaning","8":"category-ostatni-zeme","9":"tag-ostatni-zeme","10":"tag-poznavaci-dovolena"},"yoast_head":"\nBosna a Hercegovina Jeepem I. \u010d\u00e1st - All4Camper<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"All4Camper - Bosna a Hercegovina Jeepem I. \u010d\u00e1st\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/all4camper.com\/cs\/bosna-a-hercegovina-jeepem-i-cast\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bosna a Hercegovina Jeepem I. \u010d\u00e1st - 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